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DJERBA - TUNISIA'S
ISLE OF FORGETFULNESS
Photos and story by Habeeb Salloum
 No
different from Ulysses, who some authors have described as
Djerba's first tourist, a traveler will find the people of
this Tunisian isle friendly and hospitable. From the first
day of a visit, the delightful charms of Djerba (also
spelled Jerba) will hold most travelers
spellbound.
Why this island, which
travelers have labeled, 'Isle of Forgetfulness', holds
visitors under its spell, is virtually unexplainable. A
great many attribute it to its magic halo - a combination of
a clear-blue sky, shining white houses, clean and well-kept
towns, tree-covered countryside and warm, yet not too hot
climate. Whatever the case, a good number of travelers go
into raptures when describing this island - made famous by
Ulysses. Photo:
Villas amongst the palms, Djerba
According to Greek
mythology, Djerba was the home of the seductive lotus
eaters. In Homer's Odyssey, Ulysses almost lost his men when
the beautiful maidens of the island fed them the lotus
flower. The men were so pleasantly intoxicated by the lotus
that Ulysses found it almost impossible to make them return
to their ships.
Yet, even if this story is
only a fable, Djerba has, for many centuries, enraptured
travelers who have been lucky enough to land on its shores.
A veritable floating garden, rising from the sea like a
mirage, the island's spell of forgetfulness which supposedly
entrapped visitors in ancient times, has not faded with the
passing centuries. It is said that Djerba is a land of
dreams, created by nature to enchant the imagination of the
human soul.
In Djerba's Phoenician and
Roman periods, the island and its principal town were known
by the Phoenician name of Meninx whose ruins are to be found
near the 6 km (4 mi) Phoenician based Roman causeway, which
joins the island to the mainland. After the Muslim conquest,
Djerba became the haven for an Islamic sect, known as
Kharidjite, which today, in its present form, only exists on
this island.
During the Middle Ages, the
inhabitants withstood the most powerful and ruthless rulers
of Mediterranean Europe. From the 12th to the 16th
centuries, the people of this Isle of forgetfulness fought
almost continuously, usually against the Spaniards, but at
times against the united kings of Christendom.
Djerba is a 614 sq km (238
sq mi) flat island situated off the southern coast of
Tunisia, not far from the Libyan border. It is joined to the
mainland with a 6 km (3.6 mi) causeway built on a Roman
foundation. More than 145,000 inhabitants, mostly of Berber
origin, live on this isle of mythology. Its 133 km (83 mi)
shoreline abounds with sandy-white beaches, gently lapped by
the warm-azure waters of the Mediterranean
Covered with trees and
flowers, the island is in reality one huge oasis covered
with more than 1,000,000 date palms and 700,000 olive trees,
some over 3000 years old. In between, small fields of
apricots, carobs, figs, grapes, grenadines, lemons,
mandarins, oranges and pomegranates cover almost every empty
space. Only travelers dreaming of Djerba's mythology are
usually disappointed, nowhere is the fabled lotus fruit to
be found.
Here and there amid these
fields, watered from some 2700 wells, are the breathtaking
white, small villages and isolated homes. The striking white
houses, known as menzels, and their architecture, unique to
the island, appear like white jewels, sprinkled between the
greenery. Their rounded domes and bright snowy color,
embellished by sky-blue wrought iron trimmings, sparkle in
the sunlight and give the buildings an appealing charm.
Inside, there are clean courtyards filled with trees and
flowers. Set amid these fairy tale buildings are to be found
the some eye-catching 200 small mosques - many of the older
ones built as fortresses to ward off invaders.
Houmt-Souk, which means
market center, with a population of 45,000, is the capital
of the island and one of the most picturesque urban centers
in Tunisia. It is a well-kept bright town centered around
the souk area, overflowing with handicraft products.
Traditional clothing, blankets woven since the time of
Hannibal, beautifully wrought gold and silver jewelry,
leather goods, straw mats and beautiful pottery saturate the
markets.
In town, two of the most
important usual stopovers for visitors are the Museum of
Folklore and Popular Art, displaying traditional costumes
and jewelry; and the historic fortress of Borj el-Kebir, a
15th century Arab citadel. Interesting to many tourists is
the plaque nearby marking the spot where once 5000 skulls of
a Spanish defeat were once piled pyramid style.
Even though overpowered by
Houmt-Souk, each of the other tiny towns on the island, is
noted for some specialty in its artisan's handiwork or is a
place of historic importance. Ajim, from where a ferry can
be taken to the mainland, is a sponge fishing town; El- May
has a colorful market; Fatou produces fine hand-woven
baskets and rush mats; Guellala has been the center for the
hand manufacture of exquisite ceramics and pottery since the
time King Midas; La Ghriba is noted for its synagogue and
adjoining monastery whose foundations were laid in 584 B.C.;
Mahboubine is famous for its backyard gardens; Midoun is
celebrated for its Gougou dancers; and Sedouikech is
well-known for its handmade camel muzzles, fishing baskets
and straw hats.
Enhancing these and other
villages, are Djerba's annual 300 days of sunshine and warm
blue waters with their cooling breezes, edged glittering
sands, embellished by the many attractive and comfortable
modern hotels with the most up-to-date tourist facilities.
Without disturbing the calm and peace, 125 of these
eye-catching tourist palaces - the largest Dar Djerba with
2,500 beds - built in traditional menzel style, fit neatly
into the palm-saturated landscape. Nature and the edifices
built by man have merged together to strengthen the island's
magic spell.
These attractive and
comfortable hotels, hospitable and friendly people with a
slow-moving lifestyle, breathtaking countryside, mild
winters, cool summers and tantalizing sea, make Djerba one
of Tunisia's most popular tourist spots. Located on Europe's
doorsteps, the island which some call the 'Little
Mediterranean Polynesia' has since the time of Ulysses been
drawing travelers. Annually, it hosts some 600,000 visitors
- 50% of these Germans.
With the softness of its
sweet-serene air, perfumed with the flowers of the many
fruit trees, overshadowed by clear blue sky and ringed by
golden sands, this paradise isle entraps even the most
skeptical visitor. Our guide had a point when he remarked as
we climbed the ferry at Ajim for the mainland, "I always
think of Djerba as Tunisia's isle of
forgetfulness."
IF YOU GO
How To Get
There:
There are good bus
connections between Djerba and all the large urban centers
in Tunisia. Djerba also, has an airport through which most
of the tourists are processed and has good connections to
the city of Tunis and some centers in Europe. When driving,
to reach the island, cross from the mainland on the causeway
or take a ferry
Facts About Djerba and
Tunisia:
1) To enter Tunisia, no
visas are necessary for travelers from Western Europe,
Japan, U.S.A. and Canada.
2) It is best to travel to
Djerba in spring or autumn. In summer, the island teems with
tourists.
3) The currency used in
Tunisia is the dinar - one US dollar is worth1.25 dinar.
Tunisia is one of the few countries in the world where
hotels give a better exchange rate than the
banks.
4) To tour the island,
taxis are metered and very reasonable; buses and shared
taxis (louages) connect all towns and villages; tour
companies offer excursions; autos can be rented - small ones
for about 75 dinars per day, fully insured; tour companies
offer excursions; but the best way to relish Djerba's
atmosphere is to hire a bicycle - the island is flat and
very easy to navigate.
5) Hotels on the island are
very reasonably priced. However, it is best to book through
a tour company. They can offer even better prices. A good
hotel to stay in on Djerba is Hotel Melia Djerba Menzel -
cost for double room from $30. - $68., depending on
season.
6) Try Tunisian food. It's
very tasty. Three of the best dishes are couscous. Prepared
in seemingly hundreds of different ways - from sweet to very
hot; briq - a thin pastry which comes with a variety of
fillings, but always includes an egg; chakchouka - a
ratatouille which is offered in many types; and spaghetti
cooked Tunisian style - for me the epitome of Spaghetti
dishes. Also, Djerba is noted for its fresh seafood dishes.
One will not be disappointed when dining on these fruits of
the sea.
7) There is less crime in
Tunisia than in Western Europe or North America, but beware
of pick- pockets, especially in crowded trains, buses and
souks.
8) When taking tours, make
sure the guide speaks English. If you do not ask, French
will be the language spoken.
9) Tunisia is the most
sophisticated, relaxed and tolerant state in North Africa.
Women travelers are very safe when traveling
alone.
10) With the exception of
its capital, Tunis, Tunisia is geared up for tourism. The
most up-to-date touristic facilities are found in all its
resorts.
Note: All prices quoted are
in US dollars.
For Further Information,
Contact:
Tunisian National Tourist
Office
1515 Massachusetts Avenue N.W., Washington, DC 20005
Tel : (202) 466-2546. Fax : (202) 466-2553. E-mail :
tourism@tunisiaaccess.com
Tunisia National Tourist
Office
1253 Ave. McGill College, Suite 655, Montreal, Quebec,
Canada H3B 2Y5. Tel:514/397-1182/0403. Fax: 514/397-1647
E-Mail: info@tourismtunisia.com
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