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Uganda,
The Emerald of Africa
Story and
photos by Abigail Lubliner
More
Photos->
 Upon
preparing for the Africa Travel
Association's Eighth Cultural and
Eco-tourism Symposium, I decided to
research and compare itineraries and
prices at various tour operators in
Uganda. I came upon Edsa African Safaris
and Tours, Madam Sarah G. Mugabi,
Director. At 1 Portal Avenue, Suite 308
Span House, P.O. Box 27871, Kampala, Tel:
+256-41-252647/230921, Mob:
+256-77-882844, Fax: +256-41-252647, E
mail: info@edsatours.com,
Web Site: www.edsatours.com
This Safari operator
met my needs and interests, since they are
dealing with Primate Safaris, Gorilla
Tracking, Bird Watching, Water Rafting,
Camping Safaris , Mountaineering ,
etc.
Upon my arrival at
Entebbe International Airport on 15th of
October, I was greeted by my driver guide
Elijah and his helper Michael. And off we
drove by a 4 x 4 van to the Nile hotel and
Conference Center for the
night.
Oct 16th we
started our 10 days safari to the most
beautiful and diversified country in
Africa. We left Kampala heading Southwest
traveling through Masaka, Mbarara and
crossing the Equator line ( 3 countries in
the world have the Equator and snow on the
mountains at the same time, Uganda, Kenya
and Equador in South America)
On the way the scenery
was spectacular, banana plantations, tea
plantations, Ankoli cows and bulls, upon
arrival we stayed at Buhoma Homestead ,
This was the home of the elusive mountain
gorilla at Bwindi Impenetrable National
Park. The drive from Kampala to Bwindi
took 10 hours, through lush green
landscape, therefore I called it, in my
opinion, Uganda, the Emerald of
Africa.
Bwindi impenetrable
National Park is situated at the
corner of three countries, Southwest
Uganda, Northwest Rwanda and East of
Democratic republic of Congo, previously
known as Zair. This is also the home of
the Batwa Pygmies. The purpose of this
visit was to trek and observe the
habituated mountain gorillas.
To Habituate a gorilla
means getting it used to humans, for
tourism or research purposes.. This
process can take up to two years. A
tracker explains: "A group of wild
gorillas is assigned to us and we set out
every day, rain or sunshine, to follow
them. When we find "our" gorillas, we
spend the day sitting in the forest ,
making calming vocalizations or even
pretending to eat leaves to show them that
we are no a threat. After a few months the
gorillas still remain hidden in the bush,
but will cautiously peek through the
vegetation at us. For many months, we see
only a hand or a face of a curious gorilla
poking through the bush. When a silverback
is feeling more comfortable he will lead
the rest of the group to feed in the open.
Eventually people will approach up to 5m
or 15 feet. Then gradually we allow
tourist to see the gorillas".
Oct 17th: We
headed to park headquarters for briefing
and orientation before we started our
trek. Gorilla tracking is an intense
experience that can take all day. The
guide will lead you to the gorilla world,
explaining their ecology and
behaviour
While there is a good
chance of seeing the gorillas, success is
not always guaranteed. The Guides and
trackers have helped to habituate the
gorilla groups and know them will take you
to the area where they left the gorillas
the day before. The track can be very
strenuous, one must bring tracking shoes
with good traction, rain gear, sunscreen
and a hat. Water and food , binoculars,
cameras
Taking photos without
flash, use a fast film
400-800ASA.
There are only 6 people
permitted to join a group, and upon
finding the gorillas you can spend only
one hour with them.
There are certain rules
one must obey before going on a gorilla
track.
At 8:30 AM three groups
of trackers each had 6 visitors were
assigned to a particular group, I was
assigned to HABINYANJA GROUP.
We were all provided
with gorilla rules and regulations. It is
important to be responsible
ecotourist.
1. Conserving the
Natural environment
2. Improving the well
being of the local people
3. Developing the
national economy.
4. Maximum of 6 people
per group.
5. Do not leave trash
in the park
6. You will be taken
where the guide left the gorillas the
night before. Look out for gorillas
nesting and fresh droppings.
When you are with the
gorillas, keep to a minimum 5 meters, stay
together, Do not drink or eat near the
gorillas, sometimes they charge, keep down
and do not look straight into their eyes.
No flash photography and maximum time is
one hour.
The track was very
difficult and steep but the reward was
enourmous.
We each hired a tracker
helper, who helped us carry the backpack
and provided us with a walking stick,
which was very helpful. The ranger name
was Gadi and my helper was Sunday. We had
3 armed guards, one in front and 2 behind,
armed with AK-47 (I guess, because of the
proximity to the Congo)
After a very steep
climb we reached one family, we me the
silverback and 2 young male inline, and
females with babies. We visited for one
hour and then descended back to
camp.
In the year 2003 the
population of Mountain Gorilla increased
to approximately 700 individuals. One
population is found in Bwindi Impenetrable
National Park (BINP)
In South West Uganda
covering 330 KM2 and the others in the
Virunga Volcano Range (VVR), the Virunga
Volcano Range is ecologically Homogenous
(same flora and fauna) covering 3
countries. Mgahinga Gorrila National Park
in Uganda, Vocano National Park in Rwanda
and Virunga National Park in Th
Demorcratic Republic of Congo. Together
consists of 450 Square
Kilometers.
The main threat to the
gorillas are human transmitting
deseases.
Later in the afternoon
we visited the AIDS ORPHANAGE, the
community in Bwindi is doing wonders with
them. We stayed for overnight at Buhoma
Village.
There is a Buhoma
Village Walk , contributing to a changing
community. The walk starts and ends at the
Buhoma Rest Camp, which is located at the
entrance to Bwindi Impenetrable National
Park, the rest camp consists of 5
traditional bandas, which provide budget
accommodation for tourists. Visitors can
visit the local handicraft shops, the
women design and produce a wide variety of
traditional crafts, wood carvings, dyed
cloths etc. One can visit the Batwa
pygmies dancing and singing. The proceeds
that the Batwa receive from their cultural
performances go towards improving their
livelihood. Also one can visit the
Medicinal healer, the traditional medicine
man, visit the local school and banana
brewing, one can learn about the different
kind of bananas, from a simple fruit to a
thirst quenching beer. (RWARWA) and
finally to a local gin (WARAGI) the fee
for the tour goes back to the
community.
Oct 18th and Oct
19th Queen Elizabeth National
Park
Queen Elizabeth
National Park (QENP) together with
Kyambura and Kigezi Wildlife Reserves form
one of the most diverse ecosystems in
Africa. It is important to know that the
melting glacier waters of the Rwenzori
Mountains, also known as
Mountain
Of the Moon, create a
vast wetland system comprising of two main
lakes, George and Edward, and the
connecting Kazinga Channel. This is a
paradise for various birds, and there is a
huge bird sanctuary.
Thousands of Hippos
populate these lake shorelines. Big herds
of Buffalos and elephants can be seen all
along the shore line, the time of my visit
there was an epidemic of Anthrax and many
of the Hippos and Buffalos died, By the
time I left Uganda the local veterinarians
solved the problem.
Ten primate species can
be found including chimpanzees at the
Kyambura Gorge.
Several ethnic groups
that are closely related inhabit this part
of the country: the Banyankore, Bakiga and
Bakonjo.
We started at the South
Side of the park at Ishasha, the home of
the famous tree-climbing lions, they
favorite tree is the large fig trees. The
open savannah is the home of the Ugandan
Kob, the topi and buffalos. It took us few
hours until we spotted two lionesses
relaxing on the branches.
There is the
traditional Game Drives, early in the
morning and late afternoon.
We also visited the
Traditional Salt Works, at the enclave of
Lake Katwe town. Since the 14th century
salt has been mined by traditional
methods. Salt production peaks during the
dry season.
The park is also the
home of the prehistoric looking Shoebill
stork.
We also had a walk
though the steep Kyambura Gorge, home to
chimpanzees, black and white Colobus and
red tailed monkeys. We spotted some
habituated chimpanzees from far away,
sighting was not that good, but the gorge
itself is spectacular.
In Queen Elizabeth
National Park we stayed at the Mweya
Safari Lodge. Located near the Kazinga
Channel, in the middle of the park. In the
heart of the spectacular Queen Elizabeth
National Park It is a luxury resort. The
rooms are spacious, regal and very
luxurious. The lodge has a swimming pool,
a bar and a restaurant with international
cuisine, boardroom and conference room. A
wide range of credit cards are accepted at
Mweya Safari Lodge.
The Lodge has an
airstrip and only 45 minutes flight from
Entebbe.
The Lodge is offering
the following activities
Land Cruiser game
drives through the park
Lunch trips on the
Kazinga Channel.
Chimpanzee trekking
into Kyambura Gorge.
Bird
Watching.
Contact
details:
Mweya Safari
Lodge
Queen Elizabeth National Park
Lake Katwe Region, Kasese District,
P.O.Box 99 Kasese, Uganda.
Tel/Fax +256 (0) 483 44266
Marsasa Central
Reservations
Pan Africa House
Shop 9 Ground Floor, Kimathi Avenue
P.O.Box 22827, Kampala, Uganda
Tel +256 (0) 31 260260/1 Fax +256(0)31
260262
E-mail: MweyaParaa@africaonline.co.ug
Website: www.MweyaLodge.com
Oct 19th, still
in Queen Elizabeth National Park, heading
toward Baboon Cliff and Crator Lakes, some
are dormant with a savannah like
surrounding consists of Aacia trees The
park has the highest biodiversity rating
of any game park in the world.
Oct 20th. We
drove to the base camp of Rwenzori
Mountains National Park, we drove to
Ibanda to visit the starting point of
Rwenzori , walked to the Park Gate and had
Some orientation by the local people who
work for the Uganda Wildlife Authority.
These range of mountains are also known as
the Mountains of the Moon.
This Park provide
service for experienced
mountaineering.(RMS) For more information
please contact the Uganda Wildlife
Authority
Plot 3 Kintu Road,
P.O.Box 3530Kampala, Uganda
Tel +256-41-346280/7/8,
346290,348422,346651
Fax +256-41-346291
E mail: uwa@uwa.or.ug,
Website :www.uwa.or.ug
Rwenzori Mountains
National Park
E mail rmnp@uwa.or.ug
Uganda Tourist Board at e mail:
utb@starcom.co.ug,
Website www.visituganda.com
At night we drove to
Fort Portal to the Travellers Inn. This is
the starting point for Kibale National
Park,
Oct 21. Kibale
National Park lies in western Uganda,
southeast of Fort Portal town to the west
are the famous Mountains of the Moon while
the grassland and Queen Elizabeth National
Park lies to the South. It is located in
the heart of the Toro Kingdom
Kibale National Park is
a tropical rainforest, surrounded by tea
and banana plantations
Home to the Endangered
chimpanzees, as well as the red colobus
monkey and the rare
L'Hoesti monkey. The
forest has the most dense population of
primates. Black and white colobus, blue
monkey and grey-cheeked mangabey, red
tailed monkey, bush babies and pottos. The
park hosts about 325 species of
birds.
The most famous
residents are the chimpanzees. Over 1450
individuals are protected
within the park. At
KANYANCHU, a community of chimpanzees has
been habituated since 1991. Allowing
visitors the opportunity to view the great
apes in their natural environment. The
park offers primate walk. This walk starts
from Kanyanchu River Camp at 8:00 am or
3:00 pm. It lasts for 2-4 hours. We were
walking with a local guide and we had good
viewing of the chimpanzees for about one
hour.
The park has some very
simple Bandas that can be rented. There is
one elevated banda which is self catering
(self contains kitchen and bathroom) Food
can be provided by the local
canteen.
It is very important to
mention, that the Kibale National Park is
an important site for conservation and
research. The Uganda Wildlife Authority
with assistance from Jane
Goodall Institute
started the Kibale Primate Habituation
Project, which focuses on habituation the
chimpanzees to human presence. This has
increased the chances of viewing
chimpanzees to over 90%.
Funds generated from
tourism help to protect the park and cary
out the research and support local
community projects.
Makerere University has
also established a Biological field
station at Kanyawara where several
researchers are based.
Two of the local tribes
the Batooro and bakiga utilize the forest
for food, fuel building materials and
medicine. 20% of park entrance fees goes
back to the community.
For more information
please contact the
Kibale National Park
P.O.Box 699, Fort Portal-Uganda
Tel 25-483-22202, Fax +256-483-22196
E mail knp@uwa.or.ug
Last December, I had
the opportunity to visit with the
habituated chimpanzees at Gombe Stream
National Park on Lake Tanganyka, Tanzania.
It is the main research station of
habituated chimpanzees run by the famous
Jane Goodall.
Chimpanzees range in
woodland and forest across equatorial
Africa. Chimpanzees are endangered due to
loss of habitat and illegal poaching. The
best way to locate them is by listening to
their screams and panting, drumming on the
buttresses trees and by their nesting
pattern the night before and fresh
dropping.
Chimps are born with
pink faces which gradually darkens. Kibale
female give birth at
15 years old, with 7
years intervals between each birth. Kibale
male enters maturity at
the age of 20. Unlike
other primate, chimp male tend to get grey
and or bald.
The most amazing thing
is each individual has a distinctive face
which can be recognized. They travel on
their hand knuckels and the soles of their
feet and
Sometimes walk in an
upright position.
When a female comes
into heat she advertises it by a swollen
posterior. And any male
In the community young
or adult can mate with her. But at her
estrous, she will mate with the Alpha
male, or the dominant male.
Fighting is common with
the chimps, warlike fights are known only
in humans and
Chimps. They are known
to kill other male and gain their
territory and females.
Males do eat young
bushpigs and other small monkeys. Chimps
feed on medicinal plants that can cure
various parasites. They do use tools such
as twigs to fish for termites and stones
to open hard nuts.
In the afternoon we
drove to Semuliki National Park, it is
situated in the extreme west of Uganda, in
Bundibugyo District. The park lies along
the Uganda/Democratic Republic of Congo
Border within the western arm of the East
African Rift Valley. In
The southeast are the
Mountains of the Moon, Rwenzori Mountains,
to the west is Democratic Republic of
Congo and to the North is Lake Albert. The
park is the eastern extention of the Ituri
forest in the Congo. Semuliki National
park is the only
Lowland tropical rain
forest in East Africa. It has about 435
species of birds. It is also known for its
male and female hotsprings.
There are four ethnic
groups living around the park. The Bamba
and Bakonjo are fund in the valley and
mountain slopes and both are
agriculturalists, coffee, cocoa, bananas,
rice and potatoes. The Batuku who occupy
the rift valley floor, are the
pastoralists And the famous BATWA
(pygmies) are hunters-gatherers (which we
visited extensively) and are an Ituri
ethnic group who depends on Semuliki
Forest. The Batwa prefer to spend time at
their familiar surrounding, the forest
rather the new houses that were provided
for them. They do live by hunting and food
gathering assistance from local
communities and from tourists who interact
with them.
Semuliki National Park
is haven for birders.
Oct 22nd and Oct
23rd
Today we drove to the
northern part of our tour, Murchison Falls
Conservation Area.
It is bisected by the
River Nile which falls almost 300meters
during its passage through the park. After
the fall the river becomes calm and for
the reminder of its journey through the
park and Uganda. The voyage by boat from
Paraa to the falls is spectacular. The
park has about 375 species of birds, large
mammals, especially the
Famous Rothchild's
Giraffe. The park offersgame drives that
take you through open grasslands and
acacia woodlands, leading to the Nile
delta where the river joins Lake Albert
and becomes the Albert Nile. It is
important to visit the top of the falls
and the boat ride to the bottom of the
falls.
For more information
please contact the
Murchison Falls
Conservation Area
P.O.Box 455, Masindi, Uganda
Tel +256-77-746287
E mail: mfnp@uwa.or.ug
Murchison Falls offers
various accommodations from camping to
luxury. We stayed at the famous Paraa
Safari Lodge, this is under the same
management as Mweya Safari Lodge in Queen
Elizabeth National Park.
Contact information
same as Mweya Lodge.
E mail MweyaParaa@africaonline.co.ug
All rooms are facing
the river, one can hear the Hippos all
night, The lodge provide an international
cuisine. Paraa Safari Lodge is a big hotel
complex with a modern interior design, has
a swimming pool and conference
facilities.
The Launch Trip to the
bottom of the falls is the main attraction
of the park. Hippos are everywhere. Bird
watchers are seen very often. The African
fish-eagle is one of the most conspicuous
birds found along the river. Of special
interest is the shoebill or whale-headed
stork. A giant, solitary bird, it is an
aggressive predator that feeds on fish,
frogs, water rats, lizards, snakes and
even small crocodiles. It has binocular
vision, its yellow eyes that stare without
blinking indicate that the shoebill is
mainly a nocturnal hunter. They live in
marsh and swamp. Murchison Falls is one of
the few places in Africa that the shoebill
can be seen. One can also see the Goliath
heron and the saddle bill
stork.
The park provides
morning and afternoon photographic
safaris.
The top of Murchison
Falls is accessible from the south bank of
the river. The drive from Paraa Safari
Lodge takes about 45 minutes and 40km. The
visit to the top of the falls is
breathtaking natural spectacle, the most
powerful rush of water anywhere in the
world.
There are also Savannah
Walking Safaris, to watch the most amazing
Rothchild's giraffes, groups of at list 50
giraffes at one time.
Oct 24th back to
Kampala to join ATA members at the
ATA-Africa Travel Association's Eighth
Cultural & Eco-Tourism Symposium in
Kampala Uganda-October 24-29th 2004 in the
presence of H.E. Yoweri K. museveni,
President, of the Republic of Uganda. And
under the Auspices of H. E. Professor
Edward Rugumayo, Minister of Tourism,
Trade and Industry. At the Nile Hotel and
Conference Center.
After the congress, On
Oct 30th we went back to Entebbe to visit
the most amazing
Ngamba Island
Chimpanzee Sanctuary.
The Chimpanzees are members of the
great apes and they live only in
Equatorial Africa. This Sanctuary was
established in 1988 to care for orphaned
confiscated chimpanzees in Uganda. The aim
is to provide a safe place for this
chimps. At the time of my visit there were
about 30 residents. This Sanctuary provide
the visitors with educational experience
and benefits the local communities. Jane
goodall assisted in creating this
sanctuary.
The chimp Sanctuary and
wildlife Conservation Trust are partners
with six international organizations
committed to help conserve the
wildlife.
Born Free Foundation,
Environmental Conservation Trust of
Uganda, International Fund for Animal
Welfare, Jane Goodall Institute,Uganda
wildlife Education Centre and Uganda
Wildlife Society.
Ngamba Island has 40
hectares of rainforest, of which 39 is
allocated to the chimps and one hectare
for the facilities and staff and visitor.
It is eco-friendly with composting
toilets, rainwater collection, and solar
energy for electricity and hot
water.
These chimps were
previously taken from the wild and needed
very special attention and care. One can
visit for the day or stay for few days at
very luxurious self contained tents. At
the time of my visit there were 4 such
tents, I did promise to return and stay
with the chimpanzees for few days. This
place is doing wonders for the
chimpanzees.
From Entebbe one takes
a boat ride on Victoria Lake to Ngamba
Island, depends on the weather, it can
take between one to one and half hour ride
each way.
Upon returning from
Ngamba Island we went directly to visit
The Uganda Wildlife Education Centre. It
was previously the Entebbe Zoo, the zoo
suffered from lack of management and in
1992, a development study of Entebbe Zoo
was conducted by the NY Zoological Society
and recommended that the zoo be converted
into an educational center, The place was
to be a sanctuary for orphaned animals.
This was created on May 1994 as the Uganda
wildlife Education Centre Trust. The
objective was conservation Education and
Rehabilitation of injured animals,
breeding of endangered species and a
recreation Centre.
For more information on
Ngamba Island Chimp Sanctuary
contact:
Chimpanzee Sanctuary
& Wildlife Conservation Trust
Cherie Montgomery-Lianda, Project
Director
P.O.Box 884, Entebbe, Uganda
Tel/Fax +256 41 320 662 Mobile +256 77 221
537
E mail:
projectdirector@ngambaisland.org
www.ngambaisland.org
On October 31st
I left Uganda extremely happy of
seeing and participating in so many
wonderful events.
The article was written
by Abigail Lubliner ( a Muzungu) from
Adventure and Eco Tourism
An active member in ATA
since 1993.
The article was written
due to my personal experience and some
assistance in logistics from the Ugandan
Wildlife Authority.
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