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Morocco:
Night in the Berber Gites
by
Karen Hoffman
Originally
appeared in Travel Africa
 Our
one-day adventure began in Marrakech; an enchanting
walled city at the foot of the Atlas Mountains. We
drove about 48 km into the mountain foothills to
Imlil, a charming hamlet which was the starting
point of our trek. We were welcomed by the
villagers with mint tea and a delicious array of
Moroccan pastries. The mountain guides gave a
briefing on the area, and on the culture and
tradition of its inhabitants, the Berbers
("Chleuhs"). Morocco is a land of mountains which
cover an area of 100,000 square kilometres. The
High Atlas alone cover more than 700 square
kilometres, with a dozen summits exceeding 4000m
and more than 400 reaching 3000m.
Trekking on foot and on
skis are popular mountain sports in Morocco. The
summits are easily accessible, with a good network
of mule tracks. The peaks are permanently
snow-capped, but there is a mild climate with
sunshine most of the year. But it is the
opportunity to explore less frequented areas and
interact with an extremely hospitable local
population that make the Atlas particularly
attractive to hik ers.
Our trek was an easy 60-90
minute hike up a winding path which we shared with
cargo-bearing mules. Each turn revealed a
breathtaking vista. One could only envy the views
enjoyed by these villagers from the terraces of
their flat-roofed homes. Built into the mountain
slopes, these house fit into each other. Although
the summit of this mountain was Toubkal, at 4167m,
our destination was the tiny village of Aremd. As
the group arrived, we were greeted with a loud
fanfare of Berber horns.
On the terrace, we were able
to relax and appreciate the dramatic mountain
panorama before us. Rested, we were invited to
feast on a seemingly endless array of traditional
dishes made of couscous, lamb and chicken. Our
"digestive"was the return trek to Imlil, once again
taking in the peaceful scenery and fresh mountain
air.
For those unable to make the
trek on foot, Aremd is also accessible by
four-wheel drive vehicles. And for visitors who
prefer a more challenging mountain experience, you
can arrange overnight treks, staying in one of
three types of accommodation: mountain inns,
mountain refuges (cabins built by the French) and
Gites, overnight stays in the homes of local
people. Many GITES are classified according to the
amenities and facilities available (toilets,
running water, shower, bedrooms, kitchen terrace)
Another option is to spend a night under the stars
in one of the many mountain sheepfolds (AZIB), but
in winter it is advisable to pitch a
tent.
"The Great Trek Through the
Moroccan Atlas", a brochure distributed by the
Moroccan National Tourist Office, is a detailed
guide full of practical information, including
local customs and the environment. This is an
excellent example of how government tourist boards
can encourage responsible tourism by reminding
visitors to respect the environment and ancestral
traditions of the local population.
Luxurious antidote to
adventure: A secretive hideaway
In Palmeraie, a lovely
suburb of Marrakech, hidden in a park full of
bougainvillea, rose bushes and jasmine, is an
exquisite, new 'Palais". Completed a few years ago
as a private residence, the owners recently decided
to open it to guests as an exclusive villa and
"hideaway"
The architecture, a
magnificent blend of Greco-Roman and oriental
styles, maximizes the use of natural light. A
double row of majestic columns, together with the
five guest rooms and two suites, gracefully form a
semi-circle around the Hollywood-style swimming
pool.
Already discovered by
jet-setters, and the site of several fashion
shoots, it is still a well kept secret. But not for
long.It was already become a favourite getaway for
an Oscar-winning female star. And the name of this
'Palais' ? Well, then it wouldn't be a "well kept
secret", would it?
A Palais fit for a King.
Marrakesh's newest hideaway for the stars
Photo Credits: Karen Hoffman, ATA New
York
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