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Mombasa's Magical
Sands and Sparkling Sea
Part One - by Jerry
W. Bird
When
the time came to choose a razzle dazzle, upbeat photo for
the cover of Africa Travel Magazine's 30th World Congress
Edition, the Kenya Coast fishing scene won hands down. In
our vocabulary, it was a keeper! Talk about sensual appeal -
one glance and you can smell the salty air, feel the rocking
of the wooden dhow, the sun's warm rays and the kiss of a
gentle sea breeze on your face. Quick now! Can't you just
savor the steamy, succulent red lobster, fresh from the
Indian Ocean. In the theater of the mind, that magical scene
alone was sufficient bait for us to take off on what became
an unforgettable visit to Mombasa. As it turned out many of
our wishes and dreams for a pleasant, laid back coastal
paradise were fulfilled. Kenya's Minister of Tourism and
Wildlife, Hon. Morris Dzoro comes from the area, and
informed us of his ministry's far reaching plans for Mombasa
itself and other coastal centers. We would also be fortunate
in spending some quality time with the Mombasa and Coast
Tourism Association and many of its members individually.
From
Nairobi by Rail
Despite daily
flights from Nairobi to the Coast, we chose to follow
tradition by booking a trip on Kenya Railways, once the
pride of the British Commonwealth. Since launching the
travel series Railways
of the World
in 1989, I have taken every opportunity to add to my
treasury of rail travel experiences in Africa, from Morocco
to Cape Town.
Next
to the Nairobi Station is a
railway museum
that contains all the secrets of this historic route, and
outside in the yard are some living examples of the original
steam engines and coaches that carried passengers across
East Africa in their heyday. A large, ornate clock from the
period with Roman numerals adorns the museum's outer wall.
We bought a book that tells of the railway's birth, when it
was known as the Uganda Railway and built using a seemingly
endless supply of labor from Imperial India. There are
blood-curdling tales of how hungry lions preyed on the
workers and at one time seized a railway manager right off
the train. The museum is open daily from 8.45 am to 6.45
p.m., including most public holidays. Besides the collection
of steam locomotives and rolling stock, you will find many
smaller exhibits and models on display. Since the Museum in
Nairobi is still rail-connected, restored locomotives have
easy access to the main line for working steam
excursions.
The
Coastal Route
Talk about a
convenient schedule with overnight accommodation as a bonus,
this is it. Every Monday, Wednesday and Friday, the train
departs Kenya Railways Nairobi Station at 7 p.m. and arrives
in Mombasa at 8 am the next morning. The return trip is
scheduled every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at a similar
departure time. We were delighted with the low fares. For
example, a private, first class coach room is only 3160
Kenya shillings ($42 US) per person sharing; this include
upper and lower berths, a toilet, clothes closet and sink.
The rail package also includes dinner and
breakfast.
One of the first things
we learned is that the Kenya Railway runs on time. Shortly
after our train pulled away from Nairobi Station, the dinner
gong sounded and we joined the other passengers in the
dining car. To our surprise, the metal dinner plates and
white linen table cloths so common in Colonial times were
still in use. No soda pop, peanuts or cold ham sandwiches
for us. While both full course meals served aboard the train
are included in the price, there is a reasonable charge for
wine, beer or spirits. The dining car passengers were
varied, some young girls at the opposite table were from
Iceland visiting Africa for the first time; another guest
whom we enjoyed talking to was a 90 year old many from
Malindi, who was a Kenya Railway official back in the 1940s,
We plan to visit him and listen to some great railway
stories on our return to the coast, perhaps this fall. The
view we observed during the evening meal was of Nairobi's
outskirts, however the most memorable vistas along on the
historic line went unseen, as the train passed through Tsavo
National Park and other scenic areas while the passengers
were tucked away in their cozy bunk beds.
We were lulled to sleep
in no time by the train's vibration, with the rhythm of the
wheels and a fresh breeze coming in from the open window.
For added convenience, we had adjoining coaches, each with
an, upper and lower berth. It's an ideal arrangement for
families with small children. As a rail travel enthusiast I
am watching the news carefully as talk of an impending sale
is taking place. Someday soon, perhaps this coming year, a
wise entrepreneur will discover the value of rail as a
tourist attraction, His group will not only upgrade the
services, food and facilities, but will add a day time
schedule like the Rocky Mountaineer did in Western Canada.
Its founder Peter Armstrong, a former bellhop, captured a
segment of the Japanese market that no one had even
considered at the time. Another great entrepreneurial
example is Rohan Vos of Rovos
Rail in Pretoria.
Continued
on Next Page -
> -> ->
Kenya Stars
Shine in our next 4 issues!
Read about
Kenya's famous Olympic Athletes of the Century from our
meeting with Dr. Kipchoge Keino, head of the National
Olympic Committee of Kenya. Other interviews included
Tourism Ministry and KTB officials, of Kenya Airways CEO ,
African Airlines Assn, Kenya Chamber of Commerce, Kenya Tour
Operators Assn, Utalii College, East Africa Wildlife
Society, Kenya Travel Agents Assn, Great East Africa Auto
Rally, Mombasa and Coast Tourist Asson, plus many hoteliers,
travel agents, embassies and tour operators.
Details

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